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Behind the Factory Gates: Billiam Jeans

Ever since the launch of our first-ever denim collaboration with Billiam Jeans back in March, we’ve been inundated with requests for another instalment of the Limited Edition collaboration. And just the other week, they landed online & in-store.

Subtly reworked for the new season, we edited the original design by adding in a white selvedge waistband and cotton lining to prevent any colour bleed from the indigo selvedge denim. The new Berea (slim leg) and Parker (straight leg) styles are also crafted from a slightly different denim – 13oz Cone Mills White Oak denim this time – and feature a slightly different leather waist patch.

We were of course careful to retain all of the key characteristics that made them such a hit first time around, especially the intricate stitched detailing that makes them unique, resulting from every pair being handmade by the team in Greenville. Take a look at our blog post from March to see just why the Cobbler-in-Chief chose to work with Billiam.

To welcome in the latest styles, we went behind the factory gates in the Billiam workshop in South Carolina. Founder Bill Mitchell gives us a guided tour around the way the jeans are made and in particular the stories behind the specific machines that the team use to make their denim so special.

The Hemmer: Union Special 43200g

“Used on the bottom hems of every one of our pair of jeans’ legs, the black Union Special 43200g hemmer dates from the 1940s, when it was the staple machine used on all hems. There was a fault in these machines which caused the hem to be torqued at a 45 degree angle and shows a subtle roping pattern as the denim is worn and faded; we found this finish extremely attractive, and it’s one of many subtle details that denim connoisseurs covet.”

“We spent over 6 years searching and saving for the 43200g, which we amazingly found just in time for the first instalment of the Oliver Sweeney x Billiam collab. This machine is very special to us because it was the last vintage machine we wanted to buy to make our jeans one of the most detailed products in the denim world.”

The stone island promo code Feller: Union Special 35800

“Used to attach the yokes (above the back pockets) and the seat seam (in between back pockets) of our jeans, the feller is a specialised piece of kit, and ours is one of the best: a vintage Union Special 35800.”

“The machine is interesting because you’re taking two pieces of material, folding them over themselves and hiding the overlap underneath the stitches. This process was very difficult to learn and subsequently master, but has been one of the most fun production stages when we’d got the hang of it.”

The Waistbander: Singer 302u

“The Singer 302u is the staple of all waistband attachment when producing jeans. We recently purchased this machine from a closed down naval sewing plant and restored it to working condition. The goal with the lined waistband on this edition of the OS x Billiam collab was to create a waistband that didn’t bleed indigo onto a shirt that was tucked in.”

“We want our customer to be able stone island promo code to wear these jeans to work and dress them up but want to protect any dress shirt that might be worn. You will also notice the beautiful 100% cotton lining when opening the jeans as a welcome change to the standard indigo waistband.”

Take a closer look at the brand new Berea (slim leg) and Parker (straight leg) styles here.

All photos courtesy of Chris Isham Photography.