How one can Spend It
One enthusiast is designer par excellence Nigel Cabourn, who describes himself as “an outwear specialist drawing on army history”. His collaboration this season with Peak Performance – a primary for the Swedish ski brand in its 30-year history – is stone island riccione Cabourn’s maiden foray into black, and among his normal display of camouflage and khaki designs, these items are what stood out. The roomy, thigh-size stable-black Snow Patrol sheepskin jacket (£1,700) was impressed by the white shearling worn by the Swedish Snow Patrols and, with its generous fleece collar, massive canvas map pockets and massive arrowhead zip, it’s one of the crucial putting coats of the season. The black Snow Smock (£500), in a waterproof cotton/polyamide Japanese fabric, has army-style entrance pockets and, with its taped seams, waxed cords and leather-based hood stoppers, is right for off-piste city manoeuvres.
Certainly, the intersection of excessive-performance skiwear and city cool is what lots of this season’s black action jackets are about. One of many strongest examples comes from Stone Island, a brand based on action-inspired design and fabric-know-how exploration. Its trench (£695) in black David TC – a signature polyamide compound fabric that looks like a cross between chilled putty and malleable performance leather-based – has an asymmetric storm flap and throat tab and flush epaulettes.
The trench coat was certainly one of the first modern performance technical army garments to become a civilian basic. Milanese model Sealup’s Black Magnificence motorbike trench (£950) is a short 1960s-inspired take in cotton gabardine with a curved raglan sleeve and water- and windproof “felled” seaming. The belt, cuff straps and throat tab all glisten with steel eyelets that work nicely against the black. There’s more bike trench action from Barbour, whose new model of the Worldwide A7 (£279), in a lightweight 6oz beeswax cotton, features field-pleated bellows-type pockets. The Weir wax jacket (£279), additionally new, uses numerous waxes to attain a extra matte surface, however retains that familiar Barbour feel (and Stone inimitable odor). Mackintosh, in the meantime, has used all-black rubberised cotton for an elongated double-breasted trench (£985) with minimal options: simply storm flaps and a throat tab.
My own private black urban-motion fall-again has long been my vintage CP Company goggle-hood Mille Miglia jacket, teamed with black tracksuit bottoms, black vest and black running shoes. The black fishtail parka (£395) from the brand’s present assortment has a shell of Lycra over a membrane bonded to an inside polar fleece, leading to a fabric that is each weather-resistant and amazingly smooth and heat. CP’s nifty little Pro-Tek brief jacket (£325), in a excessive-performance stretch polyester jersey, is water repellent, packs down minutely and is as easy to put on as a sweatshirt.
I’m eager too on the brand new black model of Nanamica’s traditional M-fifty one parka (€770), whose exceptionally light Gore-Tex membrane is impervious to rain and in addition packs right down, and on its low-key black moleskin coat (€780) with a particular Kodenshi Cheap Stone Island down lining. High-efficiency Gore-Tex can be key to the nice-wanting GTX Mountain parka (£680) from Woolrich based on a 1970s design, with anti-rain zip and duck-down/feather fill. Its GTX Mountain jacket (£640) with patch and welt pockets and the identical fill is a winner too. A black hybrid area jacket from Norwegian Rain (£770) in matte waterproof recycled polyester reworks the traditional navy four-pocket design by extending it down like the tails of a long overshirt, whereas the CPH jacket (£700), made in the same polyester, has something of a martial-arts armour look about it, with ribbed cuff part and hid zip pockets.
Within the case of Collide – a collaboration between Moncler and the artist/designer Greg Lauren, identified for his highly distressed fabrics and hybrid garment designs – two different types are melded diagonally: for instance, within the Bady jacket (£2,465), a typical Moncler down puffa fuses with a closely distressed cotton-drill army parka. And at Maison Margiela, a black techno-poly cotton blouson (£1,360) features a number of jetted pocket details and cinching with a spray-painted rope-gathered waist – a nod to the maison’s creative heritage – while the ultra-modern fabric retains it convincingly motion prepared.