Stone Island A/W ’15 Lookbook
Stone Island’s public image is characterized by a curious mix of name recognition and misconception. It’s not unusual for the unique, intended function of a model and its merchandise to be overwhelmed by the cultural perception of it, however Stone Island have positively suffered from this phenomenon greater than most. It’s in all probability honest to say that most people, even these who’re accustomed to the Stone Island name, usually are not conscious of just how influential Stone Island have been.
The Stone Island story must invariably detour through the murky world of football hooliganism, particularly, its English variant. Clearly, hooliganism has always been closely intertwined with youth culture. Simply as obviously, vogue was an integral a part of this youth culture. Throughout the late 1960s and early 1970s, the embryonic stage of fashionable hooliganism, the members could be simply recognizable to one another, outsiders, and the forces of regulation and order out to thwart their activities. The dominant type was closely tied to the skinhead scene: heavy boots, bomber/flight jackets, and heads shorn all the way down to a primary crop. Membership colours, usually within the form of scarves had been brazenly sported.
Naturally, the spectacle of very public violence in England’s stadiums became a problem of governmental concern. The easily identifiable uniform of the hooligan was set for a stylistic shift. The informal was born.
The ‘casual’ movement was named for the designer sportswear and leisurewear favored by this new breed of hooligan. The emphasis on model took on an even higher role, and bordered on the obsessive. The early phases of informal trend have been targeted on designer sportswear and leisurewear labels. Adidas, Puma, Fila, Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini, and Lacoste were favorites. Just as importantly, there were few, if any, identifying club colors in sight. The practical effect of this was to make the contributors in violent disorder more difficult to establish. Anybody could pick out an angry trying skinhead as a supply of potential bother, somebody dressed like an instructor at an elite tennis academy, much less so.
Whereas particular types modified, and sure appears and manufacturers fell out stone island junior maastricht of favor, the general idea of ‘anonymous’ sportswear and leisurewear never went out of vogue. Fred Perry, Nike, Hackett, Burberry, and, most importantly for our purposes, Stone Island turned in style during this evolutionary period.
At the identical time, the English game was undergoing a elementary shift in tradition, as the put up-Hillsborough Taylor Report paved the best way for enormous, structural modernization. An inflow of huge cash from the Premier League rebranding raised ticket prices throughout the board. The terraces have been on their approach out for good, and the hooligans with them. Obviously, reducing off entry to the stadiums didn’t eradicate hooliganism; it just made it less seen. Violence and its contributors grew to become extra organized, and the informal ‘uniform’ turned extra important along with it, as a way to identify keen combatants.
This grew to become an even bigger issue for Stone Island than most, if not all, of the other manufacturers and labels favored by the brand new breed hooligans. The trademarked rose compass emblem is continuously bootlegged on enamel badges proclaiming the identification of 1 hooligan group or one other. It might be a close race at any given time between Stone Island and British Rail over whose emblem has been ripped off extra times.
Stone Island, as a newer high finish style label, carried much less identify recognition than established manufacturers like Burberry and Aquascutum and the next barrier to entry than huge sportswear labels like Adidas, Puma, Fila, and Lacoste. For many, soccer violence was the only context through which they had ever seen or heard of Stone Island.
As Nick Hornby deftly pointed out in ‘Fever Pitch,’ whereas discussing Milwall’s a long time lengthy image downside, once a fame for violence becomes hooked up to one thing, that factor becomes sought out by these actively looking to commit more violence, making a self perpetuating cycle. This is usually a troublesome state of affairs to extract a brand from. Burberry, as an illustration, was forced to more or less abandon their iconic plaid because it came to be associated with city violence moderately than country homes. To at the present time, there are pubs, bars, and nightclubs in the UK that won’t enable anybody wearing Stone Island gear inside.
This would be unlucky for anybody, however for Stone Island, this state of affairs borders on a downright injustice. Stone Island is the brainchild of Massimo Osti, a official style pioneer and genius. These aren’t phrases to be thrown around evenly. They’re used to explain a man who started off his career without a formal background in vogue (originally, Osti labored as a graphic designer) and ended it as the acknowledged inventor of various production methods that would be acquainted to anyone focused on vogue. The listing of Osti’s improvements reads like an unending, excessive-end catalogue description: garment dying, brushed wool, waterproof linen and wool, reflective fabric, and coolmax, simply to call a couple of.
Greater than any one, specific breakthrough, what set Massimo Osti apart during his life and what continues to set Stone Island apart as we speak, is the experimental method to Stone Island constructing garments. Somewhat paradoxically, this drive for never ending innovation is rooted in a really conventional Italian ethic. The excessive prices of legacy Italian luxurious brands were reflected within the craftsmanship of the garment, the standard of the materials, and a timeless sense of model. Buying something from labels like Gucci or Prada was an funding in one thing that, correctly cared for, would have a lifespan of decades. The same might be mentioned of Stone Island. A traditional piece of leather luggage and fashionable outerwear with a telephone and mp3 player wired into the garment don’t share a variety of outward similarities, but the quality and care put into the design and construction are the same.
This ethic is something largely lost in the contemporary marketplace. Traditional labels went from household ownership to part of a larger conglomerate, which, in turn, led to wider proliferation of merchandise, much of which was not produced in keeping with past standards. The introduction of so-referred to as “fast fashion” additional diluted the retail panorama. The top result’s that name recognition is often the one thing that survives within the consciousness of the average buyer.
When the sense of what precisely went into the manufacturing of a garment just isn’t at the forefront of a potential customer’s thoughts, there may be certain to be sticker shock when confronted with the retail worth of a truly fine quality piece. If a proper clarification by no means comes, the concept of “a 5-hundred dollar sweatshirt” becomes a punch line.
Stone Island have by no means stopped their dedication to experimentation and innovation. Realizing the specifics of every garment is beside the purpose, and would, in all likelihood be a undertaking; Stone Island’s inner product write ups are like a technical handbook. The thing to find out about Stone Island isn’t that their clothes look good, it’s that their clothes look good, explicitly, as a result of they are doing issues that no one else is doing, even with one thing as deceptively simple as a crew neck sweatshirt.